On the approach to Tirano, the scenery softens into valleys with vineyards and farms, before the train curls on to the Brusio viaduct, a stone spiral that brings the train down to ground level and parallel with the main road. It’s worth sitting at the tail-end of the train to take photographs as it curves along the six-arched Landwasser viaduct at Filisur, a limestone construction built 65 metres above apple-green waters carrying chunks of ice and snow. The Bernina Express slips in and out of 55 tunnels, plunging passengers into a roar of darkness before emerging into cantons and townships that look as though they’ve been shaken out across the slopes: a church here, a farm there and clusters of wooden chalets in between. ![]() Departing from Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland, the red train descends the mountainside, its sleek body gliding past snowdrifts the height of its roof, before crossing bridges over rivers that wind like black belts around naked woods.
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